I had never
traveled to Africa before. Despite a growing curiosity about exploring this
mysterious continent, I had mixed feelings of excitement and unease as my
departure date neared, and especially so as I was about to plant my feet on the
ground. It wasn't a dream anymore-Africa was here. I had ventured into the
unknown.
It's all too common
for the media to paint a very grim picture of Africa, as a whole. If you don't
take it upon yourself to dig deeper and discover what really is going on, then
you're left with an extremely narrowed perspective. Some are quite content
settling with this and quickly entertain other thoughts, but a rare few
struggle to contain their sense of adventure for the unknown. They must go.
Africa is an enormous continent and the diversity even within each country is
so vast that it's almost naïve to describe it as one.
I was thrilled at
the opportunity to visit Uganda, to come within reach of many thoughts and
ideas occupying my mind, but it was difficult to ignore the mounting sense of
nervousness. I didn't expect it to accompany me for as long as it had.
Reminding myself where I am
Lake Bunyonyi |
There are moments
when I have to stop and remind myself where I am in the world. Yes, it's true.
I'm in Uganda and a long way from home.
Uganda is located
in East Africa, land locked by Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Sudan,
Kenya, and Tanzania. My final destination was Kabale, located in the
southwestern Kigezi region of the country. Kabale is a small town by my standards,
but a bustling, urban center by Ugandan standards. Although Kabale has
witnessed the ramifications of violent conduct within distant parts of the
country and in neighboring countries, it has never been the victim of direct
conflict and remains relatively quiet and stable.
When I stepped off
the plane and began my journey on the ground into Kabale, my senses were
immediately comforted-the sight of palm trees, the warmth of tropical air on my
skin, and the familiar scent of wood smoke off in the distance. Such things
I've come to associate with my travels in the developing world, some of my best
life experiences, and when they find their way back in, I breathe a sigh of
relief and smile wide.
Seen through the eyes of others
I had given much
thought to how I would be perceived once in Uganda and how my presence would be
felt. This thought seemed to be the most pressing of all. Even though I
couldn't say with certainty, I was almost sure that once there I would stand
out. And the truth is, like a sore thumb.
People don't shy
away from looking and the children often come running. I've seen children waving-adorable yes-but then gesturing with open palms in hopes of receiving something. This is especially true in the rural villages. I sometimes
hear laughter as I'm walking through the town, with the mention of
"muzungu"-a term meaning foreigner. My best guess is that we are all
instinctively curious about things that are different and many Ugandans may not
all share the same level of exposure to the world. This is to be expected.
On the other hand,
they may want something.
One thing has
become very clear-the color of my skin talks. It's not really news to me, but
being white here is quickly associated with money and wealth. And I don't think
nationality even has much to do with it, considering that question typically
doesn't follow. Whether this is true or not, the people aren't, at least immediately, so willing to be
convinced otherwise. Maybe they need time to differentiate. Admittedly, I need time to understand it.
Nonetheless, in all my travels I have never felt so bombarded with it. It's inescapable and frankly, exhausting at times.
Nonetheless, in all my travels I have never felt so bombarded with it. It's inescapable and frankly, exhausting at times.
On the surface,
this is what people may see and believe. It's worth mentioning that the Ugandans I have interacted with
closely have welcomed me with open arms and been extremely hospitable-from the
start. They also appear enthusiastic that I've traveled so far to learn about
health in their country. In time, as I come to understand the locals on a
deeper level, it will become clearer how they feel about the Western presence
and what they care to know.
It's funny how you
can be so insistent on being unique at home, purposefully wanting to stand out,
but when you're really exposed and different in so many respects, the yearning
for subtlety begins.
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